Week 2 - African Odyssey

After departing the stunning landscapes of Laikipia, we flew south to the renowned Mara region, more commonly known as the Maasai Mara. Delphine had the chance to sit beside the pilot this time, practicing to be my co-pilot. I’m looking forward to learning to fly next year—what could possibly go wrong?

The Maasai Mara was teeming with life. We arrived towards the end of the migration, but this year’s migration patterns have been disrupted due to unseasonal rains, attributed largely to climate change. With the late rains, the grass was still growing, and the wildebeest continued to graze, much to our delight. Africa is rich with collective nouns, and one of our favorites is a "Confusion of Wildebeest." This name captures how these animals often seem directionless, following one another in a haphazard manner, running in various directions with no clear purpose. It can be confusing yet amusing to witness.

We stayed at Cottar’s Bush Villa, owned by the fourth-generation Cottar. Calven Cottar, the current owner, was present and shared his family's fascinating history, reflecting the evolution of human-wildlife interaction in Africa over the past century. His great-grandfather, Chas Cottar, came to the region as a big game hunter. His son introduced photography, and his grandson, Glenn, witnessed the 1977 hunting ban and advocated for conservation. Today, Calven is one of Kenya’s most respected conservation leaders. This evolution underscores Kenya’s progressive stance on wildlife preservation.

The Mara also brought moments of sadness, which I hinted at in Week 1. During one early morning game drive, we followed circling vultures to find a recently deceased female giraffe. The vultures were struggling to access the meat due to the absence of wounds, suggesting no predator had killed her. We soon discovered a few days-old baby giraffe lying dead nearby. It appeared to be the calf of the mother, but since it was a few days old, complications during birth were unlikely. Our guide speculated that the giraffes might have been poisoned by arrows from local herders. This tragic discovery left a somber impression on us and our guide, Latoure. Giraffes are majestic creatures, and witnessing their death in such circumstances was deeply distressing.

Upon arriving at Cottar’s, we noticed an impala carcass hanging in a tree—a leopard’s kill left for later consumption. The leopard, believed to have cubs nearby, eluded us despite our daily searches. Our guides explained that with the abundance of food, predators often leave kills unfinished, making sightings of apex predators less frequent. Similarly, we found the lions resting comfortably with full bellies, sleeping the day away like only a lion can.

There were many other highlights from these days: wood-fired hot tubs in the bush, elephants breaking trees for fun, and a wildebeest graveyard scattered across the plains. However, detailing all would make this post too lengthy. Our guides, Latoure and Defender, were exceptional, and our stay at Cottar’s was a truly immersive wildlife experience.

Our next destination was Giraffe Manor, a key part of our journey. Due to its popularity, reservations often require up to two years in advance. We managed to secure a single night’s stay, and the experience exceeded our high expectations. Located within the Giraffe Sanctuary we had visited upon our arrival in Nairobi, the property offers 18 rooms and a unique opportunity to learn about and interact with giraffes. While words may not fully capture the experience, the photos will provide a glimpse. Peter, our butler, waiter, and guide, was exceptional, making this stay unforgettable for my family and me.

Following Giraffe Manor, we enjoyed a relaxing stay at Sirigit Lodge in Tanzania. Before leaving Kenya, we visited the Karen Blixen Museum. For those who have read "Out of Africa" or seen the movie with Robert Redford and Meryl Streep, I highly recommend a visit. Karen Blixen’s story is one of remarkable courage in a vastly different world.

Sirigit Lodge is a charming retreat on the Kilimanjaro Golf Estate, nestled between Mount Meru and Kilimanjaro. It provided a much-needed rest, though with friends Marcus and Maxine joining us, relaxation was brief. Marcus, Alex, and I played golf on a surprisingly good course, followed by refreshments before the main event of the day: the Springboks vs. All Blacks match at Ellis Park. For many South Africans, this is an ideal day—golf, beers, and rugby. Meanwhile, Delphine and Maxine enjoyed a spa marathon, making it a perfect day for everyone.

This week also saw Alex deliver her first African tale, "How the Gerenuk Learned to Stand." Each of my children amazes me daily, but moments like these truly astonish me. We came to Africa not just for the food, pictures, and nature but to learn. My kids have embraced this journey in their own unique ways: Alex through her stories, Arabella capturing exquisite details in her book (which I'll share in another post), and little Azania with her beautiful drawings. I’m thrilled to see the beauty of Africa reflected in my children.