Week 1 - African Odyssey
Many many months ago we started thinking about this adventure. We have planned 4 weeks in Kenya and Tanzania where we will crisscross the countries exploring some of the best both countries have to offer. My great friend Marcus Brain and his team helped arrange this adventure and we hope to only sing praises along the way. No pressure Marcus.
Our whole family (but probably me a little more) has been dreaming of the time that my lovely family get to explore the true Africa without compromise. After having sailed almost around the whole world and visited over 40 countries I wanted my kids to truly see the differences in their own unique ways. To me there is no place like Africa. As I type this I can safely say I feel the best when I am here.
Our adventure began just outside Nairobi at Hemingways Eden, where we spent a night to acclimate before heading to our first safari at Sasaab Lodge in Samburu County. Before Hemingways acquired this property, it was owned and beautifully designed by renowned fashion designer Anna Trzebinski. The setting truly made us feel like we had arrived in Africa. Despite the cold mornings and evenings, we enjoyed the warmth of a roaring fire that added to the romance of the place. It was an unseasonably cold first week.
Our first major highlight was a visit to the Giraffe Sanctuary, where we fed giraffes and learned about the various species and conservation efforts. The sanctuary is home to the endangered Rothschild’s giraffe, with only around 1,400 left in the wild. The sanctuary was bustling with families, but it was an enjoyable and informative stop especially with regards to the conservation aspects. We had tasked our girls to each develop a project for the whole adventure. Arabella decided to explore understanding the different conservation approaches we encounter on our travels, hoping to design and manage her own conservancy one day. Azania was a little scared of the Giraffes and no real surprise considering how big they are and how small she is.
Another delightful discovery was Cultivar Farm and Restaurant, which we found through a recommendation from our Hemingways host. Walking 5km through local villages, to get there we were able to flavour the feeling of rural Kenya on the outskirts of Nairobi. The energy of the kids on the streets and the domestic animals walking around everywhere. We enjoyed dinner at Cultivar and It far exceeded our expectations and was a memorable culinary experience. Highly highly recommended.
After our brief stay in Nairobi, we boarded a private charter plane to Samburu County to immerse ourselves in the culture of the Samburu people. Arabella had the thrill of flying alongside our pilot. The Samburu people are semi nomadic, pastoral warriors similar to the Masaai people who generally care for cattle, sheep, goats and camels. We were staying at the Sasaab Lodge, set along the Ewaso Nyiro River, Upon arrival, our ranger, Daniel (a Masaai), and our spotter, Washington (a Samburu), quickly took us on an evening game drive to make us feel at home. For the kids this was already mind blowing and we had a truly wonderful opening day experience amongst a massive heard of Elephants. I think immediately Alex added Elephants to her favourite list. She will be studying 5 animals in more depth throughout our visit and this was the first she chose. Subsequently she has added the Wild Dog and the Gerenuk - a fascinating antelope that stands on its hind legs to reach higher foliage and moves in a unique gait with all four legs on the same side moving simultaneously.
Over the next two days, we were fortunate to see all of the region’s "Special 5": the Reticulated Giraffe, Gerenuk, Somali Ostrich, Beisa Oryx, and Grevy’s Zebra. We also encountered numerous elephants and witnessed a young male lion’s unsuccessful attempt to stalk a Gerenuk. Additional highlights included visiting a Samburu village to learn about their way of life, riding camels, and enjoying sunset cocktails in the bush. It was a wonderful start to our safari adventure.
Our flight to Segera Retreat in the Laikipia Region, was only 25 minutes, but it felt like we had entered a different world. The area, having experienced continuous bouts of rain for 8-9 months, was lush and green—a rare sight to behold. The retreat, opened 11 years ago by JochenZeitz, the former CEO of Puma and founder of the Zeitz MOCCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) in Cape Town, is uniquely designed. All guest accommodations and facilities are grouped together, creating a beautiful oasis in the surrounding savannah. The property was stunning, and we mostly had it to ourselves, with only one other family present briefly.
Our host, Adarsh, was exceptionally attentive. We were made to feel like home and the kids have completely taken over the property. They roamed the kitchen and Arabella had a baking lesson with the pastry chef. The girls play croquet with the chef and waiter on the lawn after lunch. They learnt how to make traditional beaded bracelets. All three girls learnt to make mocktails behind the bar. In particular Azania developed a very special bond with Isaac, a sweet man who’s our waiter and also the ‘arts and craft’ guy. Everyday Azania spent hours on arts and craft activities with Isaac. As I write this, Azania is tearful about leaving him. Our ranger, AJ, was wonderful despite challenging conditions. The early mornings and evenings were cold, and the long grass made wildlife sightings difficult, but we were fortunate to see a rare sight: a female cheetah nursing her three 7-day-old cubs. Sadly, one cub is feared lost, possibly taken by a martial eagle. We also had a great experience with three lionesses and their eight young cubs, ranging from 5 to 9 months and full of playful energy. The was the first of some very painful feelings we have felt so far watching nature play out in front of you. The next chapter will include an even more painful experience.
The standout feature of Segera Retreat was undoubtedly the food. Each meal was a work of art, prepared with creativity and love. We collected vegetables from the garden and honey from the beehives, adding a personal touch to the culinary experience. I left feeling 3 kg heavier but wouldn’t change a thing. The entire place was breathtaking, and I vow to return one day.
Life in Africa is different. I don’t quite know how to describe it but the people are just warmer than anywhere I have been. The smiles are bigger and whiter. The laughter is more raucous and infectious. The sky seems to never end. The stars are even brighter than at sea and the air just smells so much sweeter. Oh how wonderful it is to be back in Africa. I love you.